Excerpts

1 FACIAL CARE Ole Henriksen Skin Care guru, Esthetician, and Spa Owner When I moved to Los Angeles, I looked for a good esthetician with whom I could build a relationship and who would help solve my dry-skin problem. I had read an article about Ole Henriksen Spa in a beauty magazine in the early 1990s in which there was a beautiful photo of him and the British actress Patsy Kensit. I sought out Ole, who instantly made an impression on me. He is one of the most positive people I've ever encountered. His energy was just so high. There was such an aura around him, an aura of pure happiness and joy. I thought he was the best walking advertisement of his profession! Ole introduced me to Maki, who has been the miracle worker on my skin. And now, after five years of being a client of Ole's spa, not only does my skin look ten times better (no dry areas or flakes or one single milium), this Danish-born skin genius has also become my friend. Here is what Ole says about skin care: A professional esthetician is the best person to determine your skin type and its condition, but you can also analyze your skin yourself. This analysis will help you become your own skin care expert, allowing you to focus on treatment methods to elevate your skin to its best. HOW TO ANALYZE YOUR SKIN Three Things Needed to Analyze Your Skin Correctly 1. Bright daylight, as skin reveals itself best in this light 2. A large-handled mirror, ideally 25 centimeters or bigger in diameter 3. Your own beautiful face, free of makeup STEP 1 Take an inventory of your skin. The focus should be on texture, muscle tone, hydration, pigmentation, pores, and capillary strength. STEP 2 Glide your hand across the four primary parts of your face: forehead, nose, cheeks, and chin. How is your skin texture? Soft, smooth, or slightly coarse in areas, with occasional bumpiness? How is your skin muscle tone? Firm, with defined facial contours, or lessdefined facial contours, showing signs of loosening, especially in the lower parts of the face and neckline? Do you have fine expression lines or wrinkles? How is the skin around your eyes? Taut, or is there some wrinkle formation? Are you prone to fluid retention under your eyes? How is your skin hydration level? Excessive and therefore oily, or dehydrated and therefore dry, or a combination? How is the pigmentation of your skin? Perfectly uniform? Uneven in some facial zones, with brown spots or white spots, which signify pigment loss? How are the pores in your skin? Mostly tight and invisible, which typifies dry skin, or more open and visible in the center of your face, which typifies oily skin? How strong are the capillaries in your skin? This is basically signified by the number of visible capillaries. Frail capillaries typically show as redness, particularly in the cheeks, which indicates greater sensitivity to the elements and therefore sensitive skin. The right treatments can gradually strengthen the facial capillaries. THE BASIC SKIN TYPES The basic skin types are dry, oily, and combination. Most normal skin has both dry and oily parts, which makes it combination. That's why I label my products for dry, oily, or normal/combination skin. Sensitive skin can be experienced by all skin types and age brackets. DRY SKIN: BASIC FACTS 60 percent of skin is dry. Dry skin is the closest thing to normal skin. Dry skin is more common with fair skin than with darker skin. When you pinch dry skin, it turns red. Cold weather, too much showering, and air-conditioning in the winter are not good for dry skin; the skin might turn even drier, and flaky. Dry skin is often sensitive or has sensitive areas, such as the eyelids, cheeks, and forehead. Drinking six to eight glasses of purified water a day is the best way to moisturize the skin from the inside out, all year round. OILY SKIN: BASIC FACTS This skin type is predominantly oily, or at least 60 percent of its surface is. The T-zone is where the pores produce the most oil and pores tend toward blackhead formation. Sometimes these blackheads become inflamed and turn into pus-filled pimples. Shiny skin is a frequent problem for people with oily skin. With the right care, based on purifying and antiseptic extracts, this skin type can be stabilized, resulting in tighter pores, fewer eruptions, and less shiny skin. Sebum, produced by the sebaceous glands, is a natural skin lubricant. When produced in balanced proportions, it adds natural softness and protection to the skin, but when overproduced, as in oily or acneic skin, it causes clogged pores and possibly inflammation. So it can be a friend or an enemy of your skin. Heredity, diet, and hormones (oily skin is more common, for example, among teenagers) can all cause skin to turn oily, but skin can also turn oily in later years due to bodily imbalances or the use of products that are too greasy. Extremely humid weather also contributes to making the oil and sebaceous glands even more active, which makes the skin look shiny and greasy. Blackheads and whiteheads are common problems in oily skin, but you can get rid of them by using my A.M. and P.M. cleansing routine, focused on dislodging the pores of dirt and grime, including even the most stubborn pore clogging. But don't squeeze your pores; you might get rid of some of the blackheads or whiteheads, but if they are not eliminated properly (which can easily happen), bacteria will form in the pores and you will reinfect them, resulting in even more inflamed blemishes. Leave that kind of treatment to a professional esthetician or dermatologist, who will do a proper job of deep cleaning the skin. Try to go one to two times monthly to make rapid progress. It is not a myth that people with oily skin don't get wrinkles as easily as people with dry skin; oily skin remains more flexible and resilient because of all the oil. Darker skin tends to be more oily than fair skin because darker skin has larger oil glands than fair skin does. COMBINATION SKIN: BASIC FACTS Combination skin means that some parts of your face are oily and typically have visible pores, mostly on the nose and cheeks, while the rest of the face is anywhere from normal to dry. Seasonal changes frequently cause changes in combination skin: in the summer it becomes oilier and more prone to blackhead and whitehead formation in the T-zone, while the winter season causes it to become drier, especially in the cheek area. SKIN CARE ROUTINES, BY SKIN TYPE A simple daily morning and night skin care regimen should focus on: Cleaning Hydrating Sun protection Antiaging serums and peeling/exfoliating products A.M. AND P.M. SKIN CARE ROUTINE FOR DRY SKIN A.M.: The focus should be on protecting the skin from the elements. 1. Cleanse with a gentle, water-rinseable cleansing lotion or foam. 2. Tone with a spray tonic with antioxidants. It's a great wake-up call for the skin and feels very refreshing. 3. Day cream is all about hydration and sun protection, so use one with SPF 15. When at sunny resorts, use SPF 30. 4. Finally, on the eyes use a richly textured eye cream. A dense eye cream will create greater resiliency in the delicate under-eye tissue, so that the skin will be less prone to wrinkle formation due to typical facial expressions. P.M.: The focus should be on antiaging and repair. 1. Cleanse as in the morning. Do a double cleansing if you're wearing a foundation. 2. Tone with a spray tonic. 3. Use facial serum for antiaging and repair. Look for one with a high concentration of antioxidants. 4. Use a night cream with a rich texture, ideally based on peptides for firming and natural acids for cell proliferation. 5. Use an eye gel for firming and recontouring the lid and under-eye region. Keep it in the fridge for extra cooling, antipuffiness, and firming benefits. Once a Week 1. Fill your bathroom sink one-third full of warm water, and pour 10 to 15 drops of lavender essential oil into it. Drench a terry facecloth in the aromatic water and press it firmly onto your face. Hold in place for about 30 seconds while taking in the purifying, calming, and uplifting benefits of the essential oil. Repeat five to eight times. This delicious treat prepares the skin for exfoliation. 2. Exfoliate with a gentle scrub. Massage the scrub into the skin with tiny circular motions for two to three minutes. Rinse with lukewarm water. 3. Hydrate, nourish, and renew your skin with a hydrating mask. Don't forget to apply it on the neck as well. Lie down and relax for 10 to 15 minutes while the active ingredients of the mask go to work. Rinse with lukewarm water. 4. Follow with serum, night cream, and eye gel. Eye-area cream is so important. It isn't enough to use your regular day or night cream around the eyes because there are no oil glands in the skin surrounding them. That means no natural lubricants protect this highly expressive part of the face. The skin under the eyes is also very thin and sensitive, so I can't overemphasize the importance of using a richly textured eye cream or gel. A richly textured eye cream will literally form a protective barrier over the skin in this region, providing both enhanced elasticity and comfort. Eye gels are also great at reducing puffiness under the eyes, especially if formulated with ingredients such as cucumber extract. The reason that your day or night cream isn't enough is the higher concentration of water-based ingredients in these formulations, which can cause them to slip into the eyes and put a foggy mantle over them. A.M. AND P.M. SKIN CARE ROUTINE FOR OILY SKIN Cleanse twice a day with a soothing, nondrying antiseptic gel or foam cleanser, ideally containing eucalyptus or tea tree essential oils. Don't wash more than twice a day, because washing excessively will cause the oil and sebaceous glands to produce more oil, especially if too much oil is stripped away in the cleansing process. Use a flat round vegetable sponge to activate the cleanser and glide it across the skin in a light circular motion, covering every little crevice of the face and neck. On any part of the face afflicted with infected blemishes such as pimples and cysts, avoid using the sponge since it can be irritating on this very sensitive tissue. The second step is the application of a disinfecting and pore-constricting skin tonic based, ideally, on camphor and lactic acid. Apply with a cotton pad, stroking across the entire face in a gentle manner. A.M. 1. Cleanse and tone as described above. 2. Apply medicated blemish gel as a day cream if your skin is erupted in the T-zone. For oily skin with no blemishes, use an oil-free moisturizer based on cell-proliferating extracts such as sugar maple, sugarcane, and lemon peel extracts. 3. Finally, apply an eye gel. P.M. 1. Cleanse and tone as in the morning. 2. Apply a medicated potion, contained in a roll-on blemish stick, on the areas where eruptions are a problem. 3. Apply a night gel based on calming and pore-refining algae and cell-renewing fruit acid extracts, which also purify the skin. 4. Apply eye gel. Two to Three Times a Week 1. Exfoliation is one of the most important skin care routines for oily skin, because it cleanses the clogged pores and washes away dead skin cells. You should do this every other day and follow your regular skin care routine afterward. 2. Use a pore-refining clay or mud mask that removes impurities twice a week. Leave the mask on the skin until it is totally dry, then rinse it off with cool water. Cool water keeps the pores closed, while warm water opens them up (you don't want to open the pores after you just closed them with the mask). A.M. AND P.M. SKIN CARE ROUTINE FOR COMBINATION SKIN A.M.: The focus should be on protecting the skin against the elements. You want to establish balance so that the skin doesn't look excessively oily in the T-zone as the day progresses, especially during the summer. 1. Cleanse with a foaming gel cleanser, activated with a flat, round complexion sponge. The sponge will gently exfoliate and deep clean your skin. 2. Tone with a spray tonic based on pore-constricting extracts. 3. Hydrate with a light-textured day cream based on soothing and balancing extracts. 4. Finally, apply eye cream--a richly textured formulation including essential fatty acids from vegetable sources. P.M.: The focus should be on antiaging and repair. 1. Cleanse as in the morning. 2. Tone as in the morning. 3. Use an oil-free serum in a gel base. Look for one with both antiaging and antiseptic benefits. 4. Use a light-textured night cream, based on cell-renewing and pore-tightening ingredients. 5. Use an eye gel or cream for under-eye protection and firming. Once a Week Do the same routine as described under dry skin, on p. 11. What is a skin toner, and what are the benefits of using one? A skin toner or tonic used immediately after a cleanser acts as an all-in-one cell proliferator, pore constricter, and purifier, all of which are important in elevating the skin to be the best it can be. Oily skin, especially if it's prone to clogging and eruptions, will respond well to skin tonics with ingredients such as goldenseal, camphor, and lactic acid from milk. Skin tonics infused with fruit and berry extracts are particularly beneficial for dry and combination skin. Apply skin tonic to a premoistened flat, round cotton pad and gently press the pad into the skin. Pressing the tonic into the skin rather than rubbing it on ensures greater absorption of the active ingredients. Wash in the morning with a facial wash, and then use a toner. I highly recommend that a cleanser and toner be used in tandem each morning. A gentle foaming or lotion cleanser used with a flat, round complexion sponge is a great way to polish and awaken the skin and get the circulation going, while a toner, with its many active ingredients, will brighten the overall appearance of the skin. The treatment products that follow, such as serum and moisturizer, will interact much more effectively with the skin after cleanser and toner are used. At what age should I start to use antiaging creams? You can never start too young with antiaging formulations. Most of us don't think of sunscreens as having antiaging benefits, but they do, by cutting out a great portion of the harmful UVA and UVB rays that cause premature wrinkle formation and sagging of the skin. Antiaging is really about prevention, which includes a healthy diet and exercise. I have always been a champion of natural beauty and growing old in a natural way. You should never fight the aging process as though it's your enemy but embrace it with the right care, and that way you'll grow old looking absolutely beautiful. Be proud of where you are in your life; each day is a gift, and aging is part of it. The wisdom, inner peace, and confidence gained with each passing year are priceless. When you remain fit and healthy, with glowing skin texture, you will look stunning at any age! Start each day, regardless of age, by saying to your mirror image, "Good morning, I love myself and I am beautiful." And do it with a big smile! What about complexion treatments? Most people think that professional face treatments don't do anything. You get a great face massage, and your skin is left red and irritated afterward. There's a lot more to a complexion treatment than a facial massage! Everyone should start having complexion treatments beginning at age 16 to 18. They're truly an investment in the future of your skin. The key is to find a fabulous esthetician through a trusted recommendation. A skilled esthetician will know what the best treatment approach for your individual skin should be. Should it be a treatment focused on deep cleansing and pore tightening, or calming and soothing, or lifting and firming, or is a series of microdermabrasions best suited to your skin? A good esthetician should explain every step of the treatment she or he is giving you, what the benefits are, and what you are meant to feel on your skin with the different products used. A gentle touch applied throughout a treatment is better than a heavy touch, so look for that. However, a deep-cleansing complexion treatment can leave the skin slightly red if there are a lot of clogged pores to be dealt with. If the elimination of the impurities is done correctly, the redness will subside within 24 hours. How do I know if I have used the wrong skin care products on my face? You can tell if, for instance, you have used a dry-skin day cream on your oily skin, or vice versa. Since oily skin often has more visible pores and may be prone to erupting, a cream formulated for dry skin used on this skin type can spell trouble. Because of the richer and more emollient extracts in this kind of day cream, oily skin will experience more clogged pores and inflamed blemishes, such as pimples. Using a cream formulated for oily skin on dry skin will create less of a problem, except that this skin type will feel less smooth to the touch and look duller, due to lack of adequate hydration. How can I prevent and address skin problems? Both women and men can experience skin problems. To achieve the best skin possible, first remember that skin is a living, breathing organ with amazing powers of renewal. The top layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum, is constantly undergoing renewal via the shedding of dead skin cells. A new top layer of skin is created approximately every 25 to 30 days. In young skin the renewal cycle is more frequent than in older skin. As new skin is constantly forming from below, there is always room to improve the appearance of the skin by using the right products and treatment methods. Even the most problematic skin can be elevated to a level of perfection that you may never have thought possible. What are cysts? Cysts are red lumps underneath the skin's surface that are often painful. They look like small swellings. They don't form a head with visible pus, as pimples do. A word to the wise: resist the temptation to squeeze cysts and pimples. Doing so will prolong their presence by weeks. Rather, use an antiblemish product twice a day, evening and morning, for three to six days, and the cyst or pimple should disappear. What is microdermabrasion? Microdermabrasion, which is done by a professional, polishes, exfoliates, and oxygenates the skin, repairing the damage done by too much sun. The treatments also attack fine wrinkles, gradually making them less visible. Skin with fine acne scars will also see amazing improvements from a series of at least six treatments. I was the first person to introduce microdermabrasion to the West Coast many years ago, and I benefit from this treatment myself. Many celebrities flock to my spa before red-carpet events for this truly results-driven treatment. Microdermabrasion is not good for all skin types, though. If you have sensitive skin or a lot of blemishes, it is not the best solution. What can I do about enlarged pores? You can improve the texture of your skin by using an energizing complexion scrub three times a week and a tightening clay-based firming mask once a week. Dr. Douglas Hamilton, UCLA professor and dermatologist When your skin problems are severe, turn to a dermatologist, a doctor who can analyze the condition of your skin and design a healing treatment. Cosmetic dermatology is a specialty concerned with treating acne scars, wrinkles, and cellulite. For example, chemical peels; laser treatments (such as CO2 laser and N-Lite); wrinkle-filling treatments such as Botox (for forehead and crows' feet at the corners of the eyes); Restylane, and JuvÉderm (fillers for smile lines); and the nonsurgical face-lift called Thermage. Chemical Peels This is a treatment for the removal of aged skin by the application of a chemical, typically to the face and hands. A "superficial chemical peel" can result in moderate improvement of brown spots, even out irregular skin color, and reduce fine wrinkles. The patient can have the treatment, then return to work the next day. The results last about a year. A "medium peel" yields a greater improvement of aged skin. The patient may need one to two weeks off from work, but the results last several years. Laser Treatments Treatments such as CO2 that involve lasers remove the top layer of skin and vaporize the high ridges of wrinkles. This is good for smoothing the surface of wrinkled, blemished, and sun-damaged skin, and it smoothes out acne scars as well. Laser Hair Removal The laser selectively targets the pigment inside the hair follicle. Each pulse of the laser disables large numbers of hair follicles. The hair doesn't grow back in the areas where hair follicles are killed. You usually need three to six treatments to get results. Note: Dark skin doesn't respond well to this treatment, which can actually cause dark spots. Acne Treatments There are three main treatment options. Treatment is usually continued for months. 1. Creams/gels: Benzoyl peroxide (this kills the bacteria Cleocin T) 2. Retinoids: Three brands--Tazorac, Differin, and Retin-A--prevent clogging of the pores 3. Pills: Antibiotics, birth control pills, and spironolactone Botox This is one of the most common beauty fillers all over the world. It has been said to be poisonous and cause bad headaches, though it has no proven significant side effects. You will see the results with Botox in about a week. Restylane and JuvÉderm Both are used to fill fine lines and wrinkles. Thermage This is a very popular nonsurgical face-lift. A radio-frequency technology is used to heat the layers of your skin; it delivers heat deep into the skin to cause curling (tightening) of existing collagen and stimulate new collagen growth. Many times you need just one treatment to see the results, depending on your skin condition. A Thermage treatment lasts three to five years. Photo Facial Rejuvenation Intense pulsed light (IPL) is used to treat and correct a variety of skin conditions, such as irregularity of color (brown and red spots), poor skin texture, small veins, enlarged pores, rosacea, and signs of aging due to sun exposure. Three to six treatments yield results. You can return to work the same day and resume all of your regular activities. Rosacea is a skin ailment that leaves people red-faced from dilated blood vessels and chronic flushing. Photo facial rejuvenation can successfully treat dilated blood vessels and redness without injuring the surrounding healthy skin, while greatly reducing the episodes of flushing with long-term effectiveness. © 2010 Riku Campo Excerpted from The Best in Beauty: An Ultimate Guide to Makeup and Skincare Techniques, Tools, and Products by Riku Campo All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.